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NT COMFORT, VA„ 



AND VICINITY, 



INCLUDING 



FORTRESS MONROE, 

TOWN OF HAMPTON, 
National Home for D. V. Soldiers, 
• NATIONAL CEMETERY 



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Hampton Normal & Agricultural Institute. 

EDITION OF iss/ jViAY 23 1883 ' 



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hampton, va.: 
Press of the Hampton Institute. 

1883. ; 






COPYRIGHTED 

Sy C. W. Betts, 

1883. 



PREFACE, 



Persons seeking rest and recreation at a place un- 
fafniliar to them, are always anxious to see and enjoy 
the scefies and points of interest peculiar to that place. 
As a fneans to this end, this little book is designed by 
the compiler. 

In the vicifiity of Old Point Comfort are many pla- 
ces, equally as interesting for the part being played 
here at the present day, as for its historic past. Its 
past associations and experiences ivere warlike and 
full bf excitement and anxiety to the Nation; its pres- 
ent associations are peaceful ajid full of interest to 
the Nation. As in the past it was a pivotal point 
for the temporal salvation of the country; so to-day it 
is a pivotal poijit for the ?nental and moral salvation 
vf the country. In the past it was a port from which 
many brave men sailed to 7?ieet death calmly on the 
battle-field; to-day it is a haven of rest to those who 
have survived the conflict, where they tnay spend their 
last days peacefully and quietly, in the f?iidst of pleas- 
ant su?'rou7idi?tgs. 

A work of this kind must necessarily be brief, as 
it is simply intended as a guide, not a history ; yet 
it will aim to give all the points, in as condensed ma?i- 



IV. 

ner as possible^ that would prove interesting to the gen- 
eral reader. 

Commencing with a brief introduction on ''''Old 
Point Comforf — 7ve propose taking the visitor through 
Fortress Monroe : thence to the National Home for 
Disabled Volunteer Soldiers, National Cemetery, IIa??ip- 
ton Normal and Agricultural Institute, for Colored 
and Indiati Youth, and the quaint old town of Hainp- 
ton. After visiting these places, if tifne permits, we 
will pay a brief visit to the new city of Newport NewSy 
7vhich is destined, at no great future day, to become 
one of, if not the great shippi7ig port of the United 
States. Reliable informatioji regarding how to reach 
the cities of Norfolk, Portsjnouth, Richmond, etc., as 
well as information upon coming to Old Point Com- 
fort from all parts of the country, will be given. In 
a word, we will endeavor to give the reader all the 
information he may desire, saviiig him the trouble 
and annoyaiice of questioning strangers, and consult- 
ing papers. 

Taking for granted that you have arrived at the 
^^ Point,'' and are cozily domiciled in the famous ^''Hy- 
geia,'' we will first give a brief history of ^'' Old Point 
Comfo7't,'' and then proceed on our tour of inspection. 

C. W. £. 



OLD POINT COMFORT. 



Historical.— If the reader will refer to the map, in 
the front of this book, he will notice a narrow strip of 
land, almost surrounded by water, extending out from 
the eastern shore of Virginia into the broad expanse 
of water formed by the confluence of the Chesapeake 
Bay and the James River. This is "Old Point Com- 
fort." 

In 1606, a company was formed, in London, for the 
purpose of colonizing Virginia. " The persons named 
in the charter of Virginia, as founders of the ' London 
Company,' were Sir Thomas Gates, Sir George Somers, 
Richard Hakluyt, and Edward Maria Wingfield." The 
Company guaranteed, for every £\2, \os, (about $60,) 
paid into the treasury, to give the contributor one hun- 
dred acres of land in the new colony, with the prom- 
ise of one hundred acres more when the first lot had 
been cultivated. 

"The Company organized, fitted out three vessels, 
under the command of Christopher Newport, who had 
acquired a maratime reputation by former expeditions 
against the Spaniards. On December 19th, 1606, one 
hundred and five men embarked in these vessels, des- 
tined to form the first colony of Virginia, but not very 
well selected for such a purpose. Of this small num- 
ber forty-eight were 'gentle7nen' persons brought up to 
(5) 



6 

esteem manual labor degrading. There were but twelve 
laborers, four carpenters, and a few other mechanics." 
The leaders were Wingfield, a merchant, Gosnold, who 
had made a previous voyage to the New World, the 
chaplain ; and last, but not least, that seventeenth cen- 
tury hero — ^John Smith — soldier, sailor, discoverer, dip- 
lomast, and historian of the enterprise. 

"The names of the future counsellors to whom the 
government of the colony was to be intrusted, were 
carried to Virginia a profound secret, carefully sealed 
up in a tin box, along with King James' instructions. 
Newport proceeded by way of the Canaries and the 
West Indies; and, during the long passage, cabals arose, 
Wingfield, jealous of Smith's reputation, accused him 
of a desire to murder the Council, usurp the govern- 
ment, and make himself King of Virginia; and on this 
extraordinary charge Smith was arrested, and kept in 
confinement during the remainder of the passage. Sev- 
eral weeks were spent among the Carribee Islands. 
Sailing thence in search of the coast of Virginia, a 
fortunate storm drove the vessels past Roanoke, and 
after a four-months passage from England they entered 
Chesapeake Bay. The two head lands at the entrance 
were named Cape Henry and Cape Charles, after the 
Kings' two sons. A party of thirty landing on Cape 
Henry, were attacked by five of the natives, and had 
two of their number wounded. Presently the ship 
came to anchor at old Point Comfort, at the mouth of 
a broad river or estuary." Here the sealed box was 
opened and the names of the Council made known. 
They then continued their journey of exploration up 



the great river Powhatan, trafficking with the natives",^ 
who received them kindly and regarded them with cu- 
rious eyes ; as many of them had never before seen a 
white man. A spot was finally chosen for settlement , 
on the north bank of the river, about fifty miles from 
the bay. This spot was called Jamestown, and the 
river soon came to be known as the James Riven 

In July, 1608, Captain Smith, with a select party ^ 
started, in an open boat, to explore the shores of 
the Chesapeake. They proceeded safely on their 
way as far as the entrance to the Piankatank river,, 
when a mighty storm arose, with thunder, wind, and 
furious rain. In their open boat they were exposed 
to the full force of the blast, and sought in vain to stem 
its fury and find their wa.y into some convenient har- 
bor. Unable to ride at anchor, they put their frail 
bark before the wind and scudded toward the south- 
ward. York river was passed ; then Back river, neither 
of which they could make ; till finally they came to the 
sandy strip of land jutting out into the entrance of the 
James river, rounding which they found shelter from 
the storm, and named the place, in gratitude of heart. 
Point Comfort. The adjective, " old," has since been 
given it to distingaish it from its sister shelter, New 
Point Comfort, higher up the bay. 

The name, though quaint, could not have been more 
appropriate, for a point of comfort it has been to many 
a goodly vessel since that day. "Hither, when the 
fierce east wind lashes the Atlantic into fury, the white- 
winged coasting schooners flee by scores for shelter, 
and bide the time when gentle westerly breezes shall 



8 

woo them forth, and encourage them on their way. 
Here rendezvoused the ships which brought from Eng- 
land the welcome succor to the starving colony at 
Jamestown. Here, during the struggle for American 
Independence, the fleet of France rode proudly at their 
anchor, and made final preparation for their share in 
that campaign which terminated so gloriously in the 
surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, and whither, at 
the signal repulse of their attack on Norfolk, the Brit- 
ish fleet repaired in 1813, and rested tranquilly at an- 
chor while their armed boats carried fire, sword, and 
rapine, into the peaceful and defenceless village of 
Hampton." 

Here later on, in our own time, occured the first en- 
counter between iron-clad vessels of war, which was 
witnessed from the beach of Old Point. " In the early 
afternoon of March 7th, 1862, the Union fleet, lying at 
anchor at Newport News, about six miles from the 
Point, beheld with astonishment a nondescript vessel, 
propelled by steam, running from the mouth of the 
Elizabeth river, and heading directly toward them with 
evident hostile intention. Contemptuously disregard- 
ing a broadside delivered at point-blank range by the 
frigate Congress, the monster headed directly for the 
frigate Cumberland, and, amidst a shower of missiles 
which rebounded harmlessly from her iron covering, 
she hurled herself fair upon the Union ship, crushing 
in her side, like peper, with the shock. There were 
heavy hearts at Old Point Comfort that night, and all 
looked anxiously for the morrow, dreading the appear- 
ance of the apparently invulnerable Confederate mon- 



ster. But when, at dawn of day the Merrimac — or ac- 
-cording to her new baptism, the Virginia— reappeared, 
there lay in Hampton Roads awaiting her, what seemed 
to be a floating raft, with a turret rising from its cen- 
tre. It was the world-famous Monitor, just completed 
by her inventor, and arrived from New York the night 
preious." 

The result of the battle between the two iron mon- 
sters is familiar to every reader, and need not be re- 
peated here. 

" For years before the war Old Point Comfort had 
been celebrated as a watering place. The singular sa- 
lubrity of its location, malarial fevers being absolutely 
unknown, assured it a wide celebrity as a place of resi- 
dence during the heated summer months. The mild- 
ness of the climate, also, aided to produce the same 
result. From the broad Atlantic the winds, tempered 
with the soft exhalations of the sea, sweep towards it, 
bearing coolness and tonic invigoration upon their 
wings. The temperature in summer ranges between 
60 and 80 degrees, and the nights are few when a bed- 
covering is not found an agreeable necessity of repose. 
The gentry of the upper country flocked hither during 
the summer months to enjoy the unaccustomed lux- 
ury of sea bathing and fishing. But the outbreak of 
the war, which wrought so many changes, interposed 
an abrupt interruption to the career of Old Point Com- 
fort as a resort of pleasure. Military necessity demanded 
the demolition of the hotel building, which interfered 
materially with the range of the guns of the fortress. 
And even had this not been the case, the hosts of 



lO 

quondam pleasure-seekers had other and sterner duties 
to perform. * * * Grim visaged war dropped down 
its sable curtain upon the theatre of pleasure ; and for 
long, weary years Old Point Comfort was known and 
regarded only as an important military post in posses- 
sion of the United States." 

It was not until several years after the return of 
peace that the Hygeia Hotel arose from its ashes, and 
Old Point Comfort again took its position as one of 
the leading watering places on the Atlantic coast. It 
has gradually grown into popular favor, year by yean 
The modest building, which at first contained ample 
provisions, has been added to from year to year by 
the present proprietor, Mr. H. Phoebus, until at the 
present time its capacity is over one thousand guests- 

The climate of Old Point Comfort is unequalled for 
salubrity and general healthfulness. The record of the 
Meteorological Observatory for the past ten years shows 
the following average temperature : Summer, 74°; Au- 
tumn, 59°; Winter, 44°; Spring, 52°. It is a well-known 
fact that every Post Physician that has been stationed 
here speaks in the highest terms of its healthfulness,.. 
and freedom from diseases of a malignant type ; as well 
for its beneficial effect upon those troubled or threat- 
ened with certain diseases. The climate seems specially 
adapted to children ; the dreaded diphtheria, scarlet 
and other fevers, being seldom if ever contracted here 

Before leaving the subject of Old Point Comfort, it. 
might be well to state that it is owned entirely by the 
Government. Not a foot of this land could be bought 
at any price; nor could a dwelling of any kind be 



1 1 



erected thereon without submitting a special bill to 
Congress, which would have to be referred to appro- 
priate committees, reported on, read various times, 
passed, and approved by the Chief Executive. 

With this much by way of explanation, we will pro- 
ceed at once to the various points of interest. A walk 
of about three minutes brings us to Fortress Mon- 
roe, a discription of which is given in the following 
chapter. 




FORTRESS MONI[OE, 



The natural fitness of this locaHty for a fortified 
station was early seen and taken advantage of. We 
read that as early as 1630, one " Harvey built a fort at 
Old Point Comfort, at the entrance of James River, 
and to supply it with ammunition, a fee or payment in 
powder and ball was demanded from every ship that 
passed. The commander was authorized to tender the 
oaths of allegiance and supremacy to all persons arriv- 
ing at the colony, and to send all vessels to James- 
town before unloading any of their cargoes." 

The ground upon which Fortress Monroe stands 
was ceded by the Legislature of Virginia, to the Gov- 
ernment of the United States, to be used as the site of 
a military post. General Simon Bernard, a foreign 
engineer, was employed to design the fortifications, 
and, in the year 1817, the ground plan was traced, and 
the work of erection commenced. 

The Fortress covers about eighty acres of ground. 
Its form is that of an irregular hexagon, two sides of 
which command the water front, while four look out 
upon the land. The walls, which are of granite, rise to 
the height of 35 feet ; and about the entire work, a 
moat extends — from seventy-five to one hundred and 
iifty feet wide, and faced with granite— : the water in 
which rises to the height of 8 feet at high water. On the 

(12) 



'3 

land side the ramparts are solid, with the exception of 
some of the flanks which are casemated, but on the 
side toward the water the armament consists of two 
tiers of guns, one casemated and one in barbette. Up 
to the commencement of the Rebellion it had cost the 
Government two and half million dollars. 

We cross the bridge, which spans the moat, and en- 
ter the open gates, pass the sentinel on his monotonous 
beat, and find ourselves behind its frowning walls. We 
find that the interior is well laid out with broad and 
partially shaded walks. Numerous live oaks are planted 
about the parade ground, " and the superstition pre- 
vails among the inhabitants of Old Point Comfort that 
the northern rampart of Fortress Monroe marks the 
limit north of which the live oak has never grown, and 
never may, shall, or can, grow in the future." These 
trees afford luxuriant shade under which the visitor 
may pass his time reading, or listening to the sweet 
and enlivening strains of the full military brass band 
stationed here. We first mount the ramparts , from 
which we have a fine view of the Hampton Roads on 
•the water side, and of the surrounding level but pictur- 
esque country, with its farms and villages dotting here 
and there, on the land side. Leaving the ramparts, 
which afford a delightful promenade, we will next visit 
the museum, which is situated in a frame structure on 
the right near the main entrance. This building is 
open daily from lo a. m. till 12 m., and from i p. m. to 
5 p. m. After examining the many curious and interest- 
ing relics of warfare we will, before proceeding further^ 
give the reader some idea of the routine work of the 
fort. 



14 

To the casual visitor there appears to be nothing of 
importance going on. We meet but few officers or 
soldiers beside the sentinels, and occasionally a detail 
squad here and there. But we must remember that 
this is not only a fortified garrison, but also a school. 
Here officers from West Point, upon application, take 
a post-graduate course in artillery study and practice. 
At the former place they simply get a superficial or 
theoretical idea of the subject ; here the theories they 
have studied are put into practical shape. The text- 
books and documents used in the school are all printed 
in the garrison. 

There is Guard Mounting, every morning at 8.30 o'- 
clock, excepting Sundays, when it occurs about an 
hour later. 

Dress Parade every day, Saturdays excepted, at a 
half hour before sunset. 

From June to October the fine military band, sta- 
tioned here, give open air concerts from 5 to 6 p. m. 
daily, Sundays excepted. 

The above are very interesting to the visitor, espe- 
cially if he has never before witnessed them. 

In addition to the above there is target practice 
nearly every afternoon, outside of the fort, back of the 
■government machine shop. 

In July there is sea-coast firing every afternoon, be- 
tween 3 and 4 o'clock, excepting Saturday and Sunday. 

Church service is held in the chapel, on the grounds, 
every Sunday morning at 11 o'clock. Preaching by 
the Rev. O. E. Herrick, chaplain, U. S, Army. This 
chapel is aptly called, " Church of the Centurian." 



15 

If visitors desire souvenirs of their visit, they can 
obtain views of all the principal points of interest, at 
the Post Trader's, Mr. Wm. Baulch's, facing the parade- 
ground. These views include not only the Fortress, 
but places of interest in Hampton and vicinity ; among 
others, the building in which Jefferson Davis was con- 
lined while a prisoner here. 

Besides places already mentioned, there is also an 
electrical and engineering department, and a labratory. 
These are not open to the general public. 

General G. IV. Getty is the officer in command. 

Leaving the Fortress, we next drive to the National 
Soldiers' Home. As we enter the main road we notice 
on our left an enclosure containing stacks of old can- 
non balls, condemned ordnance, or parts of same. On 
our right is the Government machine shop. We soon 
come to the bridge spanning Mill creek, in the centre 
of which paces a sentry night and day. On the oppo- 
site side of the bridge is Chesapeake City, the present 
terminus of the Chesapeake and Ohio R. R. Past 
this, nothing of interest is to be seen, except a house 
here and there, till we come to the " Home ;" a brief 
history of which we will give in the next chapter. 




National Home for DisaWed Volunteer 
Soldiers. 

SOUTHERN BRANCH. 



We will take the reader back to ante bellum days. 
From the boat, on our way from Norfolk, we notice on 
our left a lajrge, imposing structure, delightfully situ- 
ated in the midst of trees and shrubbery, facing the 
broad waters of Hampton Roads, and directly at the 
entrance of Hampton Creek. This, at the time we re- 
fer to, was the Chesapeake Female College, under the 
control of the Baptist denomination. It was built in 
1857, at a cost of $64,000, and was occupied about No- 
vember of that same j'^ear, but was not entirely finished 
till the winter of i859-'6o. The property originally 
comprised 40 acres. In this institution many of the 
daughters of the F. F. Vs. prosecuted their studies un- 
interruptedly till the breaking out of the war, when 
they were called to their homes, and the building — 
which had often re-echoed with their merry laughter 
— was soon put tc a far different use. It was taken 
possession of by the Government, and about October, 
1 86 1, was used as a hospital ; and later, by General 
Schofield, as head-quarters. In 1864 the property was 
purchased by General Butler who, in 1870, sold it to 
the Government to be used as an asylum for disabled 
soldiers, they paying $50,000 for the same. 

(16) 



17 

The first Deputy Governor of this Branch was Rev, 
Charles A. Raymond, the former President of the Col- 
lege, who was appointed January i, 1871. February 
ist, of the same year, there were but 50 inmates; but, 
as the place became better known, the number gradu- 
ally increased. The number that could be originally 
accommodated was about 350. 

On the 17th of Januar}^ 1873, the present Governor, 
Captain P. T. Woodfin, assumed charge, and under 
his judicious management the Institution soon became 
taxed for room. New bariacks were erected, the Li- 
brary enlarged. Hall built for amusement purposes ; 
and, as far as possible, everything necessary to make 
the place comfortable and attractive to the inmates, 
has been done. Since its organization, three thousand 
six hundred and fifty (3650) have been admitted and 
cared for. The average number present for the quar- 
ter ending March 31st, 1883, was 1057 ; present and ab- 
sent, over 1200; whole number cared for 1349. To 
meet the demand for the constantly increasing num- 
ber of applications, the main building has been remod- 
elled and enlarged ; broad piazzas, on each of the 
four floors, run the whole length of the front of the 
building ; and every convenience and accommodation 
necessary for the inmates have been added. But with 
all the improvements made the accommodations are 
still insufficient. Some of the unsightly frame build- 
ings are being torn down, which will be replaced by 
new ones ; and there is little doubt that this Branch 
will, in the course of time, equal in importance and 
attractions either of the other Branches. 



The officers of the Institution are : Capt. P. T. Wood- 
fin, Governor; Capt. Wm. Thompson, Treasurer, Sec'y, 
and C. S ; Dr. S. K. Tow'le, Surgeon. Gen. M'Clellan 
is the Local Manager. 

The entrance to the Home grounds is by a road 
branching to the left from the main road to Hampton, 
about half way between the latter place and Mill Creek. 
Entering the grounds through an archway, we drive 
direct to the entrance of the main building, where we 
will find a guide in waiting, who is ready at once to 
take us to every place of interest. We first enter the 
main building and take a peep into company quarters. 
Everything is as neat and clean as though " house- 
cleaning day " was only yesterday. The men are sit- 
ting down or lying on their cots reading. All seem 
contented and happy. We pass on up to the next 
floor ; it is but a duplicate of the first ; and so on, all 
the way up. We find wash-rooms, bath-rooms, and 
other conveniences, on every floor. When we reach 
the fifth floor we will walk out on the front piazza 
and take a view of the harbor. It is well worth the 
exertion of climbing. Here we can see for miles ; and 
the ever-changing panorama of passing boats makes 
it a scene that must be seen to be appreciated. But, 
if we are not satisfied with this view and aspire to 
something higher, we may — if we are good climbers — 
mount to the top of the dome, where we can view the 
country for miles on either side, as far as the horizon. 
We now descend, (perhaps the next time you come 
you may ride down in the elevator,) and our guide will 
take special pride in conducting you to the 



19 

WARD MEMORIAL HALL. 

This is a beautiful pressed brick structure, and reflects 
great credit alike on the architect and builder. It was 
built by funds bequeathed for that purpose by Mr. Hora- 
tio Ward of London, England. The original amount left 
was $100,000, which with interest, &c., up to the time it 
was applied, amounted to about $1 1 1,000, This amount 
was divided among the different Brrnches. 

The following Extract for77i the Minutes of the Board 
of Managers may prove interesting : — 

" The President laid before the Board a communica- 
tion from Messrs. Farmer and Robbins, of London, so- 
licitors of the late Horatio Ward, announcing that the 
high Court of Chancery of England had made a decree 
ordering the delivery of the Bonds named in the Will 
of said Horatio Ward, being 15 Bonds State of Mis- 
souri, $15,000; 25 North Carolina, $25,000; 20 Virginia, 
$20,000 ; 40 Tennessee, $40,000. Total, $100,000; with 
accumulated interest, amounting to $9,700, in United 
States Bonds, and £,'2.'^o, 9^-. 6d. cash, to the National 
Asylum . 

" Whereupon, the following resolution was adopted : 
" Resolved, That the Board of Managers of the Na- 
tional Asylum for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers being 
found entitled, under a decree of the high Court of 
Chancery of England, dated June 4th, 1870, in the suit 
of Ward vs. McKewan, to the legacy given by the will 
of the late Horatio Ward to the National Soldiers' and 
Sailors' Home at Washington, hereby accept the same 
in full discharge of the executors of said will, to wit : 



20 

^Benjamin Moran, Esq. and Henry Powell Esq. ; and 

that be duly authorized and empowered, 

as the certain attorney of the Board of Managers, to 
receive the Bonds with the accrued interest, as invested, 
and also any cash balance there may be ; and due ac- 
quittance and discharge for the same to make to the 
said executors ; and that the power of attorney accom- 
panied with this resolution, under the seal of the Asy- 
lum, and certified by the President and Secretary, be 
also signed by the President of the United States und 
Secretary of War, as ex-officio members of the Board. 
''Resolved, — In grateful acknowledgement of the mu- 
nificent donation to the National Asylum for disabled 
Volunteer Soldiers, by the late Horatio Ward of Lon- 
don, England,— that a suitable Tablet be inscribed as 
follows : " The Ward Home for Disabled Soldiers," and 
placed upon the principal building of the Southern 
Branch." 

We first enter the spacious dining-room; every- 
thing is in perfect order; sixteen tables the entire 
length of the room are set, ready for the next meal. 
i,ooo men can be accommodated at one sitting; hence 
it is necessary to have two tables. It might be proper 
to state here that visiters are not allowed to remain in 
the dining-room during meal hours ; so, do not think 
your guide impolite if, at the tapping of the bell, he 
requests you to retire. In an adjoining room is the 
kitchen, with its mammoth boilers, coffee-pots, etc. 
As elsewhere, everything is clean and in good order. 
It may be of interest to some to know that it takes 
about looo lbs of beef at one meal ; and from 800 to 900 



2X 



loaves of bread daily. The latter is all baked on the 
place. The bill of fare changes daily, and varies with 
the seasons. We give below the bill of fare for one 
day: — 

Breakfast. 

Ham, 

Bread, 

Potatoes, 

Eggs, 

Butter, 

Coffee. 



Supper. 

Stewed Prunes, 

Bread. 

Butter, 

Cheese, 

Tea. 



Dinner. 

Roast Beef, 
Bread, 
Butter, 
Potatoes 
Rice Pudding, 
Coffee. 

In the same building is also a billiard room, where 
those of the inmates who delight in that interesting 
amusement, can while away many an hour. 

We now visit the theatre on the floor above. This 
is a beautiful room, and perfect in all its appointments. 
It is stocked with a well-selected variety of scenery. 
Its seating capacity is 915. Entertainments of vari- 
ous kinds are given here for the amusement of the in- 
mates, who are admitted free. There is a theatrical 
and minstrel troupe, connected with the institution, 
that gives very creditable performances. 

The offices of the Governor and Treasurer are in the 
neat brick building near the " Ward " Memorial HalL 
The guide politely asks us if we like flowers. Of 
course we do ; who does not ? So, we follow him out 
of the building, and around the neatly kept walk, ob- 
serving in our passage the tastily arranged flower-beds, 
the statuary, and shining brass ordnance. We come 
to the Governor's residence (which, of course, is not 
open to visitors), in the rear of which is the 



22 

CONSERVATORY. 

If we are a lover of the beautiful in nature, we can 
enjoy the beauty and fragrance of the many choice and 
rare plants that are here found. Upon inquiry, we 
find that we can purchase flowers here, either loose or 
made-up into any desired shape. Leaving the Conser- 
vatory, we enter the 

HOSPITAL, 
which is near the main building. How striking the con- 
trast, from life and beauty to sickness and suffering! 
Here are many poor fellows whose unwritten lives are 
full of romance. Many of them have been coniined 
for months, yet with it all they bear up bravely, even 
cheerfully. The patients treated here average about 
eighty- five daily. They have the best of care and the 
most skillful treatment. A new and better appointed 
Hospital will soon be in course of erection. 

THE LIBRARY AND READING ROOM, 

which we next visit, is on the second floor of the first 
building on the left as we enter the grounds, the Smok- 
ing room being on the first floor of the same building. 
The first contribution to the Library was made by the 
" Ladies' Union" of New York City, in 1871. Many 
kindly disposed persons have contributed, from time 
to time, many valuable and interesting volumes. 
Among the donors might be mentioned, Mrs. General 
McClellan, Mrs. Zollikoffer and Mr. Albert Crane of 
New York City, Mrs. Oswin Wells, Mrs. J. Watson 
Black, Mrs. H. Whitmore, Mrs. J. N. Goodwin, Miss 
Batterson, and Mr. Black, of Hartford, Conn.; and 



23 

many others. 

Governor Woodfin has always taken a warm inter- 
est in the Library and, from special funds, has added 
at different times many choice and interesting works, 
till it now numbers over four thousand volumes — 
American, German and French. There are one hun- 
dred and fort3'-six papers taken, twenty-six of them 
being daily, five tri-weekly, and one hundred and fif- 
teen weekly; besides fifteen magazines and other peri- 
odicals. The Library is open daily from 8 a. m. to 12 
m., from i to 5 p. m., and from 6 to 8 p. m. Closed 
on Saturday afternoon from i to 6 o'clock. 

The buildings are not the only points of attraction 
at the Home. The drive along the w^ater front is de- 
lightful, and the view beautiful. A broad, boarded 
terrace runs the entire length of the breakwater, which 
is taken advantage of by the inmates as a promenade. 

The grounds are well shaded and tastefully laid out. 
and it would be difficult to find a p'ace more suited to 
the object for which it is intended. 

There is a well organized steam fire department con- 
nected with the institution. 

There is a store on the grounds, where the inmates 
can obtain everything needful. 

Besides the entertainments in "Ward" Memorial 
Hall, the inmates have many other amusements, such as 
boating, yachting, fishing, and salt-water bathing— the 
h ouses being erected for the latter purpose on the 
dock at the mouth of the creek. 

The fine military band connected with the Institu- 
tion gives Open Air Concerts every afternoon, except 



24 

Sundays, from 3 to 4 o'clock. 

On Sunday morning there is Outside Inspection at 
9.45 o'clock, Viewed from the piazza, the sight of 800 
or 1000 veterans, arranged in companies around the 
spacious walks of the grounds, is very picturesque, and 
is enjoyed by thousands of visitors yearly. 

Many of the inmates pass their time in making fancy 
and curious articles to sell to visiters as souvenirs of 
their visit. 

The Institution also has a farm of 150 acres, about 
three miles distant, on which they raise produce for 
the Home use. This is called " Buck Row " farm. On 
it can still be seen an old earth-work, said to have been 
erected in colonial times. 

Leaving the Home grounds, we next visit the Na- 
tional Cemetery, a description of which will be given 
in the next chapter. 




PIO^AL CEMETERY, 

Description: — This Cemetery is situated on the south- 
eastern side of the Normal School grounds, and is sep- 
arated from the Soldiers' Home by a narrow inlet of 
the Hampton Creek. 

The lot is an irregular figure, of many sides, six of 
them being right lines, the balance following the wind- 
ings of the inlet above mentioned. To the casual ob- 
server the lot appears to be a parallelogram, about 
twice as long as wide. It contains 11.61 acres of level 
land, and was purchased by the United States, in 1867, 
for the sum of $6,306. It is enclosed by a rubble stone- 
wall, laid in mortar, and covered by a rough coping. 

We enter the enclosure by a gate, on the north side,. 
and proceed to the office of the Superintendent, Mr. 
August Miller, which is on the left-hand side, near the 
entrance, where we register our names, and then pro- 
ceed up the main avenue, 20 feet wide, on either side 
of which are well kept flower beds. About 350 feet 
from the entrance is a mound upon which the flagstaff 
stands. Facing this mound, on either side, is a large 
cannon planted vertically as a monument. Here the 
road branches off to the right and left. Near the 
centre of the ground is an imposing solid granite 

MONUMENT, 
65 feet high, erected through the efforts of Miss D. L. 



26 

Dix, of New York. This monument stands in the 
centre of a circular grass plat, 74 feet in diameter, 
which is enclosed by an iron fence, the posts being 3 
inch rifled cannon (Rodman) and the pickets musket- 
barrels with bayonets fixed. 

We naturally look for the mounds over the graves, 
as in other cemeteries, but if it were not for the long 
straight rows of low head-stones, we would not know 
they were graves. The ground is perfectly level, sodded 
and kept closely cropped, giving the whole cemetery 
the appearance of being carpeted with a beautiful 
green. 

The graves are arranged in double parallel rows, feet 
to feet, with paths five feet wide between the rows of 
"head-stones. These stones contain the name, rank, 
.and State of the deceased, if known. 

As we proceed to the extreme south end of the 
grounds, the visitor is apt to exclaim., " Why, how is 
it that all the head-boards in this part of the cemetery 
.are wooden, and the inscriptions on some of them ob- 
literated, while all the others are stone ?" My friend, 
if you will read the inscriptions you will see that those 
poor fellows — though as brave soldiers probably as 
ever drew sword — had the misfortune to belong to a 
lost cause. They perished while prisoners of war, 
^either in the hospital at Camp Hamilton, or in Fort- 
ress Monroe. It is a standing shame to the nation 
that there should be a distinction shown in this respect. 
While it may not be intentional, yet it bears upon the 
face of it the appearance of a revengefulness and little- 
ness of purpose unbecoming so great a nation. If for 



27 

no other reason than for the looks of the cemetery 
these head-boards should be replaced with stones sim- 
ilar to those in other parts of the grounds. 

The interments to date (May i, 1883) are as follows : 

Knoivn. Ufiknown. Total. 

White Union Soldiers 3640 412 4052 

White Union Sailors 66 6 72 

Colored Union Soldiers 990 57 X047 

'^°^^' 4696 475 5171 

Confederate Soldiers and Sailors 280 280 

Citizens, women and children 83 8- 

Total interments ..5059 475 533^ 

All the bodies interred here previous to May 14, 
1 87 1, were removed from their places of original inter- 
ment, being mostly from the grounds of the general 
hospitals in this vicinity, but some were removed from 
Big Bethel, Newport News, Norfolk, Portsmouth, Cra- 
ney Island, and other places. The interments from the 
Soldiers' Home average aboi.t five a month. 

As we are coming out we notice on one side of the 
cemetery, near the front a long, frame building, with a 
small steeple in front. This is 

BETHESDA CHAPEL, 
built during the war by the American Home Mission- 
ary Society of New York, in which religious services 
are still held every Sabbath morning, at 10.45 o'clock, 
by the Normal School. Twice has it been ordered to 
be removed, but, through the interposition of the offi- 
cers and friends of the school, the order has been 
countermanded each time. There are many associa- 



28 

tions connected with it that render the old building; 
of more than passing interest. Beneath its roof have 
gathered most of the prominent men of our day. In 
it our beloved Garfield delivered his last public ad- 
dress, to the students of the Normal School, on the 
morning of June 5th, 1881, but one month previous to 
his assassination. We will enter the building, and 
while resting, will read over his impromptu but pointed 
and memorable address on that occasion, which we 
give entire below : 

" As I drove through these grounds to-day, I was impressed with the 
thought that I was between the representatives of the past and the fu- 
ture. 

Crippled and bent with service and years, those veterans in the 
Soldiers' Home, represent the past. You represent the future — the 
future of your race — a future made possible by the past, by these 
graves around us. 

Two phases of the future strike me as I look over this assemblage. 
For I see another race here ; a race from the far west. These two 
classes of people are approaching the great problem of humanity, which 
is Labor ^ from different sides. 

I would put that problem into four words : Labor must be free^ 
And for those of you from the far West, I would omit the last word in; 
order to enforce the first lesson. To you I would say: Labor must 
be! — for you, for all. Without it there can be no civilization. The 
white race has learned that truth . They came here as pioneers, felled, 
the forests and swept away all obstacles before them by labor. There- 
fore to you I would say that without labor you can be nothing The- 
first text in your civilization is : Labor must be ! 

You of the African race have learned this text, but yovi learned it 
under the lash. Slavery taught you that labor must be. The mighty 
voice of war spoke out to you, and to us all, that Labor must be forever 
free. 

The basis of all civilization is that Labor must be. The basis of ev- 
erything great in civilization, the glory of our civilization, is that Labor 
must be free ! 

I am glad to tee that General Armstrong is working out ihis problem 



29 

on both sides— reaching one hand to the South, and one hand to the 
West— with all this continent of Anglo-Saxon civilization behind him ; 
working it out in the only way it can be worked out— the way that will 
give us a country without sections, a people without a stain." 

Having rested, we take our leave of these " represen- 
tatives of the past," and visit the ^'representatives of 
the future," whose present condition and privileges 
" have been made possible by the past— by the graves" 
which we have just left. 

While on our way to the office building of the Nor- 
mal School, we will give our visitor a brief history of 
this Institution. 




Hampton %rmal | kgrml'l Institute,. 



Historical. — This Institution is situated about two 
and a half miles from Old Point Comfort, on an estate 
of one hundred and twenty acres, once known as 
" Little Scotland," and during the civil war known as 
"Camp Hamilton," the base hospital of the Army of 
the James, where as many as 1 5,000 sick and wounded 
Union soldiers were cared for at one time. The estate 
was purchased in the summer of 1867 for the sum of 
nineteen thousand ($19,000) dollars; ten thousand 
($10,000) dollars of which were from the "Avery" 
fund, through its trustee, Hon, Josiah King, the bal- 
ance was paid by the American Missionary Associa- 
tion of New York, they assuming the general respon- 
sibility. After erecting the necessary buildings the 
school was opened in April, 1868, with fifteen scholars 
and two teachers. 

In June, 1870, the Institute received a charter from 
the General Assembly of Virginia, creating a corpora- 
tion, with power to choose their own successors, and 
to hold property exempt from taxation. This Board 
numbers seventeen members, who hold and control 
the entire property of the School, by deed from the 
American Missionary Association. The School is un- 
denominational, but decidedly religious in its training. 

In March, 1872, the General Assembly of Virginia. 



31 

passed an Act, giving the Institution one-third of the 
Agricultural College land grant of Virginia. Its share 
was one hundred thousand acres, which were sold in 
May, 1872, for $95,000. Nine-tenths of this money 
was invested in State bonds, bearing six per cent, in- 
terest ; the other tenth has been expended in the pur- 
chase of additional land, increasing the size of the- 
home farm to one hundred and ninety acres. The 
land thus received was a portion of the " Segar " es- 
tate, adjacent to the Institute grounds, and well adapt- 
ed to the needs of the School. The State has, thus 
far, promptly paid the interest on the fund, amounting 
to ten thousand ($10,000) dollars annually. None of 
this money can be used for building purposes. It sup- 
plies about one-fifth of the running expenses of the 
School. The disbursement of this income must be 
ratified by a Board of six Curators (three of whom may 
be colored), appointed by the Governor every four 
years. They meet with the Trustees, annually, in May, 
and attend their deliberations. 

In addition to the Home farm of one hundred and 
ninety acres, the Institution now has a grass and grain 
farm of six hundred acres, about four miles outside of 
Hampton, which is worked by students. This is called 
" Hemenway " farm. 

The School has no permanent debt. A Report con- 
taining a detailed account of securities, receipts, ex- 
penditures, salaries, and the loss or gain on each 
branch of industry, is printed annually and sent to 
each contributor. 

The entire property of the School is now valued at 



32 

about $350,000, all of which, with the exception of 
about $45,000, has been paid for by private contribu- 
tions. 

The leading aim of the School is to give to the Ne- 
gro race a class of intelligent, earnest, practical teach- 
ers ; the demand for which is increasing yearly, and is 
■far beyond their ability to supply. 

In April, 1878, Indian students were admitted, the 
first being seventeen Sioux ex-warriors, taken from a 
band of about fifty, who had been held as prisoners of 
war at St. Augustine, Florida, for three years, under 
Capt. R. H. Pratt, of the United States Army. Suc- 
cess with these, the most savage of the Indian race, 
led to further efforts in their behalf ; and the number 
has increased yearly, until, at the present time, there 
are 108; both sexes being represented ; these are from 
fifteen agencies, and represent as many tribes. 

The United States pays $167 a piece per annum to- 
ward the board and clothes of 100 Indians ; allowing 
•nothing for tuition, which costs about $70 each per an- 
num. For this sum, amounting to about $35,000 an- 
nually, the School looks to the friends of both races. 
The erronious idea that this is a Government institu- 
tion seems to have become very general, which has un- 
doubtedly been caused by the relation existing between 
the School and Government since the admission of 
Indians. 

The number of students in the Institution at present 
is as follows : 



33 



Negro Students. Male 223 

" " Female 169- -392 

Indian . Male 67 

" " Female 41—108 

Total 500 

A^o. of officers and teachers in class-rooms, agricul- 
ture, work shops, and housekeeping departments, 50 ; 
13 are graduates of the School. Ninety per cent, of 
the four hundred and fifty-two graduates are teaching, 
or have taught in this and neighboring States. 

Classes may be visited each week-day except Satur- 
day, between 10.30 and 12 o'clock, a. m. 

The work shops may be visited any week-day, morn- 
ing or afternoon. 

The di7i7ier hour is 12.20 P. M., at which time all the 
students are assembled in the large dining room in 
Virginia Hall. On Fridays only the School Band plays 
at this hour. 

Battalio7i Drill on Fridays, from 4 to 5 P. M. 

Inspection every morning, except Saturday and 
Sunday, at 8.15. 

Church Services in the chapel in the National Ceme- 
tery on Sunday mornings, at 10.45 o'clock. Seats free. 



With this much by way of introduction and explana- 
tion, we will wend our way first to the Offices of the 
Principal and Treasurer, which are situated in a plain, 
substantial brick building, facing the Hampton Creek, 
and built in 1882. Here we register our names, if we 
so choose, and securing a guide, start on our tour of 
inspection. We first visit the 



34 

LIBRARY AND READING ROOM, 
which is on the upper floor of this building. Here are 
many curiosities of African and Indian origin, neatly- 
arranged in show cases ; together with over 2,600 vol- 
umes, and many of the leading newspapers and periodi- 
cals of the day. The Post-Office is also in this 
building. From the Library we will go to 

ACADEMIC HALL, 

situated between the Office building and the Saw 
Mill. This building was built in 1882, to replace the 
one destroyed by fire on the night of November 9th, 
1879, It is divided into class rooms of different sizes, 
while on the upper floor is a large room for prayer 
meetings and other purposes. After spending an in- 
teresting half hour or so listening to the recitations of 
both the colored and Indian students — we will visit 
the 

HUNTINGTON INDUSTRIAL WORKS, 

an imposing brick structure, on the water's edge, the 
munificent gift of C. P. Huntington, Esq., President of 
the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. In this depart- 
ment we find not only colored and Indian workmen, 
but many skilled white mechanics. This is necessary, 
because of the demands made upon the works by out- 
side parties for window-sash, door-frames, scroll- 
work, mouldings, &c. The lower floor is devoted to 
the manufacture and dressing of plain lumber; the 
second floor for circular sawing, scroll sawing, turning, 
&c., while the third floor is used as a store and drying 
room. The power is furnished by a Corliss engine-^- 



35 

presented to the School originally by the manufac- 
turer : subsequently paid for by Mr. Huntington 
(whose generosity would not allow any one else to 
even have a share in the fitting out of the works), and 
the money given to the School. Mr. Albert Howe is 
business manager of this department. 

We will now retrace our steps, and visit the " Stone' 
Memorial Building. - On our way we pass two 
frame cottages called "Marquand" and "Graves" 
cottage, respectively. These contain boys' dormito- 
ries. 

THE "STONE" MEMORIAL BUILDING 
was erected 1882, through the liberality of Mrs. Valeria 
Stone, of Maiden, Mass., who gave $20,000 toward it. 
We come first to the Girls' Industrial Room and 
Sewing and Tailoring Department. Here all the 
mending and making of garments is done, and uni- 
forms for the students are made. Here also can be 
purchased souvenirs of our visit to the institution — 
articles made by Indian and colored students — such 
as decorated pottery, paper knives, dressed dolls, nee- 
dle handiwork, &c. Miss M. T. Galpin has general 
charge, and Mr. R. H. Hamilton is in charge of the 
Tailoring department. On the same floor we come to 
the Knitting Department. Here the manufacture 
of mittens is carried on. The products of this depart- 
ment are all taken by a firm in Massachusetts. 

We next visit the Printing Office and Book 
Bindery on the first floor also. Here we find a large 
cylinder press running by steam power ; also two sm.all 



36 

job presses. From twelve to fifteen hands are busily 
at work ; mostly colored. But two Indians have thus 
iar entered this department. One has graduated — the 
other graduates this year, A fair education and 
knowledge of the English language being necessary be- 
fore they can learn the printing trade, is the main 
reason for there not being more Indians in this depart- 
ment. We also notice several veterans from the Sol- 
diers' Home at the case, while the bookbinder also 
wears the uniform of Uncle Sam. This department is 
kept busy all the time. Here the Southern Workman 
s printed — also the African Repository, a quarterly ma- 
gazine of the American Colonization [Society, samples 
of which will be cheerfully furnished you. If you 
wish to subscribe for the Workfnan, you can leave 
your name (and dollar) here. The office is more than 
self-supporting, and is building up a good local trade. 
The office is in charge of Mr. C. W. Betts. The upper 
floors of this building are used for boys' domitorie s 
and are of no especial interest to the visitor. 

pacing the " Stone " building is the 
"WIGWAM," 
built in 1879; this is for Indian boys. 

A short distance from this building is the 
BARN. 

This is a large frame structure, built in 1873. Here 
can be seen short-horn and Alderney stock : Morgan 
and Percheron horses, mil'ch cows, swine, poultry, &c., 
also a large silo. The view from the top of the Barn 
is very extensive, and well worth the effort of climbing. 



m-'w^ TOflf^f 'I ^11111 



Wi^fi' 



=^l^. 



-,'351-1 



•^s; 



l! 



-H^l /I 



„ A -^ 



*i ^pg] (Ni 



0M^S: 



I I 11.1111 ',- d 




i 



37 

The entire farming department is in charge of Mr. 
Abert Howe. 

We next visit the 

INDIAN TRAINING SHOP, 
situated in the rear of the Barn, on the corner facing 
the main road to Hampton and Old Point. On the 
first floor are the Harness and Tin Shops. The se- 
cond floor is occupied by the Shoe Department. All 
of these departments are working on Government 
contracts. 

In an adjoining brick building is the Wheelwright 
and Blacksmith Shop, while the Carpenter Shop 
is in a long one-story frame building, connected by a 
board walk with the tin and harness department. The 
Paint Shop is also in this department. Mr. J. H 
' McDowell is in charge. The buildings were finished* 
the first of the present year. 

But two more buildings remain for inspection : 
"WINONA LODGE" and VIRGINIA HALL. 
The former we will visit first. It was built in 1 882, and 
is intended for Indian girls exclusively. After inspect- 
ing the neatly kept rooms, and having a romp with a 
couple of genuine pappooses (whose fathers were so 
anxious to obtain an education that they brought 
their wives and babes with them), we enter Virginia 
Hall by an enclosed walk, and proceed to the front 
porch, where we witness the marching of the students 
to dinner, headed by the School Brass Band of 16 
pieces. (By way of parenthesis we would state that the 
Band only accompanies them on Fridays.) After all 



38 

the students have filed into the large dining room, we 
enter with the rest of the visitors. At the tap of the 
bell all is silence, until, at a signal, the whole school 
join in singing a hymn of thanks. After which, at the 
tap of the bell, the students are seated, and are soon 
doing ample justice to the abundance of healthy and 
nourishing food that is placed before them. This 
building is 190 feet front by 40 feet in width, with a 
wing running 100 feet to the rear. In the basement is 
the Laundry, Bakery and Commissary department. 
The first floor contains the students' and teachers' 
dining rooms, &c. The second and third floors con- 
tain the rooms of the teachers and colored female stu- 
dents. Teachers' and students' parlors are On the se- 
cond floor; and a large, well lighted chapel, capable of 
accommodating 800 people, is on the third floor. 
Virginia Hall was built in 1874, chiefly through the 
eft'orts of the " Hampton Students," in a three years' 
singing campaign. It is the largest and handsomest 
building on the grounds, and contanis every conven- 
ience. 

In the rear of Virginia Hall is the Boiler and Gas 
House ; the former supplies the heat for Winona Lodge 
and Virginia Hall; the latter furnishes gas for all the 
principal buildings on the place ; having a capacity of 
5,000 lights. This department is in charge of Mr. J. 
B. H. Goff. 
We next drive to the 

"BUTLER" SCHOOL HOUSE, 
which is at the entrance of the School grounds. This 
is a large frame building in the form of a Greek cross. 



39 

It was built by order of the Government during the 
war as a school for contrabands, and was named after 
General Butler, who was then in charge of affairs at 
this point. It is now used as a day school, and is 
maintained b}'' the county for six months in the year, 
and for three months by the Normal School, which sup- 
plies its teachers, The best time to visit it is about 1 2.30 
P. M. There is kitchen garden drill and singing from 
12:30 to 1.30 p. M., on Mondays and Wednesdays. 

It might be pertinently asked here, who is the head 
of this vast and complete system of training, not only 
for the head but the hands also. The prime mover in 
the matter, and the life and soul of the Institution, is 
the Principal, General S. C. Armstrong, through whose 
indefatigable and tireless energy the School has grown 
to such proportions as to challenge the admiration and 
gratitude of all who are interested in the two races for 
whom it is designed. The tinancial concerns of the 
Institution have been well taken care of by the Treas- 
urer, General J. F. B. Marshall, and the general busi- 
ness details are looked after closely by Mr. F. C. Briggs» 
the Business Manager, while the various departments 
are presided over by skilled and competent workmen. 

There are two new buildings now under way : a 
Gymnasium and Machine Shop. The latter is now 
in the basement of one of the cottages. In this de- 
partment is done all the steam and gas fitting and 
general repairing of machinery on the place, under the 
supervision of Mr. J. B. H. Goff. 

The bricks used in all of these buildings were mostly 
made on the School grounds by students. 



40 

Having hastily inspected the workings and progress 
of this famous institution, we enter our carriage and 
are driven along a level shell road for about half a mile, 
passing on our way several modern dwellings, but the 
majority are one and two-story frames. Some few of 
them bear the stamp of ante-bellum days, but many 
of them are neat looking, and the gardens in front 
kept in good order. Just at the turn of road we 
pass, on our left, the old Tyler mansion, the former 
country residence of the ex- President ; and soon come 
to the Bridge spanning the Hampton river. The 
location of the bridge has been moved a little beyond 
where the old bridge stood, which was burned by Gen. 
Magruder; but some of the old posts are still standing, 
which can be seen at low tide. Over the bridge we 
are fairly in the town of Hampton, a brief sketch of 
which we will now give. 




visited 
Dund it 
louses, 
1 called 
at that 
[ere he 
ere en- 
iir voy- 

IS 1610, 
upon it 
ructure 
own as 

a mile 
le same 

one of 
)ack to 
:o every 
ng that 
ry. In 
the in- 
church 
ng into 
1660 by 




STREET SCENE, SLABTOWN. 



When the renowned Captain John Smith first visited 
the site of the present town of Hampton, he found it 
but a small village, containing about eighteen houses, 
covering but three acres of ground. It was then called 
Kecoughtan, after a small tribe of Indians, who at that 
date numbered but about twenty warriors. Here he 
and his little party stopped on July, 1608, and were en- 
tertained by the natives, before starting on their voy- 
age of exploration up the Powhatan. 

"The town was settled by English as early as 1610, 
although its modern name was not bestowed upon it 
till a much later date. About 1620 a frame structure 
for worshiping in was erected on what is known as 
the " Pembroke " farm, about three-quarters of a mile 
from the present site of St. John's Church, on the same 
road. Many of the graves can still be seen ; one of 
which, that of an English admiral, dating back to 
1696. This should be a sacred spot, not only to every 
Virginian, but to everyone interested in anything that 
pertains to the early settlement of our country. In 
1634 the village was erected into a parish under the in- 
cumbency of the Rev. Mr. Bucke, for whom a church 
was erected by the settlers. This church, falling into 
decay, was replaced between the5^ears 1658 and 1660 by 



42 

the Church of St. John, which is still standing. The 
records of the vestry extend back to 1751. It is 
stated on good authority that the bricks used in the 
building of this church were brought over from Eng- 
land by the colonists, and although the old structure 
has passed through so many and varied experiences, 
yet the "walls of Zion " have withstood the violence 
of man's wrath, and the heat of the raging fire, and to- 
day within them, as in years gone by, the hymn of 
thanksgiving is heard ascending, and the word of the 
Lord is expounded', not only to our own race, but also 
to the descendants of the aboriginal races of our conti- 
nent. During the war of 181 2, the church was occu- 
pied by the British forces, who used it for various pur- 
poses, and left it a mass of ruins. It was restored and 
consecrated by Bishop Moore, in 1834, and it seemed 
as though its tribulations were passed. But, at the be- 
ginning of the Rebellion, it was set on fire by the Con- 
federates, and burned to the ground ; but still the old 
walls held firmly together as though in defiance of 
anything that man could do to them. To test its 
strength still more, excavations were made under every 
corner of the building for the purpose of finding the 
corner-stone, and thereby getting any valuables that 
might be secreted therein. Whether the efforts of 
these vandals were successful or not the writer does 
not know. The oldest known grave in this church- 
yard is 1 701. 

In 1705 the settlement was incorporated into a town 

-under the name of Hampton ; and in the later colonial 

days was a place of some importance for the shipment 



43 

of produce and the importation of British goods and 
manufactures. In a work called " Notes on Virginia, 
published in 1794, by Thomas Jefferson, in answer to 
the query, "Which are the principal towns of Virg- 
inia?" Hampton is mentioned in connection with 
Norfolk, Richmond, Petersburg and other towns — thus 
proving that it must have been a place of some im- 
portance. 

We doubt if any town or village of the same size 
has passed through so many and varied vicissitudes as 
the town of Hampton. " One of the earliest engage- 
ments of the Revolutionary war was the successful de- 
fense of the town by the inhabitants, aided by a rifle 
company, against the boats of a British fieet, in Octo- 
ber, 1775. In 181 3, the town was less fortunate, being 
attacked by Admiral Cockburn and Sir Sidney Beck- 
with, with a flotilla of boats, and captured after a short 
but decisive action. On this occasion the place was 
given up to pillage, and the inhabitants who had been 
unable to flee were subjected to most shameful indig- 
nities and barbarities. Even the British commander 
was moved to indignation at the excesses he was una- 
ble to prevent ; and answering a congratulatory letter 
from his commanding general at Norfolk, deprecated 
all praises of his achievement, with the forcible and 
striking remark, ' Worthless is the laurel that is steeped 
in woman's tears. 

Again, when the war of '61 broke out. v/as Hampton 
destined to still further disaster. The creek upon 
which the town stands was for a while the dividing 
line between the Union and Confederate forces ; the 



44 

latter occupying the western, the former the eastern 
side. In August, 1861, the Confederate forces, under 
General Magruder, numbering about seven thousand 
men, with eight pieces of artillery, were stationed on 
Back river, about three miles from Hampton. His in- 
tention was to force an engagement upon the Union 
soldiers stationed here or at Newport News; or at 
least to destroy the town, and thus prevent its being 
used by Gen. Butler's men as winter quarters. The 
latter he was successful in doing ; as not only every 
house but one was destroyed, but the long bridge 
spanning the creek was burned also. This ac- 
tion on the part of Magruder was unwarranted, and 
caused much comment. In "Harper's History of the 
Rebellion " we read : " The circumstances incident to the 
conflagration were every way disgraceful to the Con- 
federate commander. No warning was given, and 
helpless non-combatants were aroused from their beds 
at midnight to look upon the destruction of their 
homes." This was on the 7th of August, 1861. 

And so a curse seemed to follow the locality where 
the first slaves were landed, till, in God's own time, by 
the mighty voice of war, the incubus was lifted. It 
seemed fitting that here where the Negro first felt the 
bitterness of slavery he should also first taste the 
sweetness of freedom and liberty, for the famous 
"order" that made him "contraband of war" and 
thereby virtually gave him his liberty, was issued by 
Gen. Butler in May, 1861, from the camp at Fortress 
Monroe. 

Another fact, not generally known, is, that in the year 



45 

1676, while Virginia was underthe dominion of Charles 
11, an edict was passed by the Burgesses of Stafford coun- 
ty declaring that "All Indians taken in war are to be 
held and accounted slaves for life. This, the first legiti- 
mate attempt to reduce the native Indians of Virginia 
to slavery, may help, perhaps, to explain the eagerness 
of the colonists for offensive warfare." Thus in the 
neighborhood of the birthplace of slavery in the new 
world the representatives of these same races are now 
enjoying the liberties and blessings denied them for so 
many long years. 

For sometime after the close of the Rebellion but 
little notice was taken of Hampton. Its population 
was mostly colored, whose chief occupation was fish- 
ing and oystering. But soon a change came ; with the 
establishment of the institution, wherein the once ' 
down-trodden races could have and enjoy the same 
privileges as their more favored white brethren, the 
designs of an All-wise Providence seemed to have 
been fulfilled ; and since then the place has been im- 
proving — slow, to be sure, but nevertheless marked. 
Many of the old houses are giving place to more mo- 
dern looking buildings ; trades and manufactures are 
looking up ; Northern capital is finding its way here, 
and Hampton seems to be on the road to a prosperous 
future. A railroad on the outskirts of the town, con- 
nects it with Old Point and Newport News — a thing 
that the most sanguine inhabitant oFthe place ten 
years ago would not have thought possible. An 
hourly line of chariots run between the town and Old 
Point, from 6 A. M. to 8 P. M. Fare each way 10 cents, 



46 

The town contains about six thousand inhabitants; 
the majority of whom are colored. There are two 
principal streets; the main one, which the bridge 
opens on, being called Queen, and a cross street, about 
the centre of the town, which is called King. There 
are many other smaller streets, but the principal busi- 
ness houses are on these two. Old St. John's Church 
stands on the right side of Queen street, a short dis- 
tance above King. Visitors can visit the church at 
any hour of the day: If it is not open, the key can be 
obtained from the sexton, who lives but a few doors 
away. On the latter street is the Post-office and 
Court-house, for this is the county seat of Elizabeth City 
county. On this street, a short distance from Barnes' 
Hotel, is also standing the only house that withstood 
the conflagration of August '6i. It is a large old-fash- 
ioned, substantial-looking brick building, with high 
steps in front. There are both white and colored 
Baptist and Methodist churches in the town. There 
are two hotels — Barnes', on King street, capable 
of accommodating loo guests, and Hotel Comfort, 
on Queen street, a short distance from the bridge. 
These are both pleasant houses, and the proprietors 
and attendants obliging and courteous. As we drive 
through the town we see many things that still remind 
us of the days "befo' de wa'." The tumble-down 
shanties on son^e of the back streets, with* the sable, 
happy-looking occupants sitting on the steps, content- 
edly smoking their pipe, or gossipping with their 
neighbors ; the children, with as little clothing as the 
law permits, playing around ; while the " never-to-be- 



47 

got-along-without-" dorg " is a necessary adjunct to 
put a finishing touch to the sketch, and the general rule 
is — the poorer the family, the greater the number of 
dogs. To one accumstomed to the fine turnouts of 
our large cities, there is a peculiar attraction in the va- 
riety of equipages which are met. Happy is the man 
who is the fortunate possessor of a horse ; but our 
colored brother does not disdain to ride behind a steer. 
Whether in a barouche, with a span of four, or on a 
box nailed upon an axletree, drawn by a miniature bo- 
^ vine, with one and a half horns, 'a ride's a ride for a' 
that," and on Saturdays we will see whole families in 
these conveyances coming into the town from the sur- 
rounding country, to do their shopping and see the 
sights. The steer is the Negro farmer's main depend- 
ence. He uses him for plowing, harrowing, &c., 
through the week, and rests him on Sundays, by hitch- 
ing him to the cart and making him draw the family 
to church. 

We will now turn our horses faces toward the Point, 
leaving the trip to Newport's News and other places for 
another chapter. 





'S 



To reach this new and enterprising city, take the 
-cars at Phoebus Station — near Old Point — or at Hamp- 
ton. A ride of ten or fifteen minutes brings us to the 
'end of our journey. If this is our first visit to the 
place, we may be disappointed; but, had we seen the 
place two, or even one year ago, we would appreciate 
the improvements made. The city is situated on a 
point of land at the mouth of the James River, over- 
looking Hampton Roads, about seven miles from 
Hampton, and received its name in commemoration 
of the good news brought from England, to the 
starving colony in the neighborhood. 

It has never been a place of much importance, and 
it seems strange that, after a lapse of so many years, 
the beauty and natural advantages of the place should 
first be discovered and utilized. 

The land upon which the city s tands is owned by 
the Old Dominion Land Company, and about one 
thousand acres has been regularly laid out in streets 
.and avenues, the principal ones being graded. 

Many handsome brick and frame stores and residea- 
•ces have been built or are in course of construction, 
where two years ago there was only a single house and 
vacant lots. There are two fine hotels already opened 



49 

— the hotel " Warwick," being one of the finest ap- 
pointed houses in the South, capable of accommodat- 
ing three hundred guests. But the beauty and value 
of the cit}'' lies in its immense water front. This is 
evident from the fact that, before a house had been 
erected, an immense covered wharf, 700 feet 6 inches 
long and 132 ft. wide was built. During the last year an 
immense coal pier — Soo ft. long and $0 ft. wide— has 
been erected. This has two tracks in the centre, and 
one raised on each side; oeing constructed to move 
the cars by gravity. It is 30 ft. high, and vessels are 
loaded by twelve schutes from the cars. In the rear of 
this pier is an immense coal pocket, now nearly com- 
pleted, 12,009 feet in length, 70 ft. wide, and 3$ ft. high. 

Another immense covered wharf is about finishea, 
which is designed for the Old Dominion Steamship 
Company. This is 800 feet long and 162 feet wide, and 
will be used as a passenger pier. It is two stories high, 
and will be connected with a six-story grain -elevator, 
385x90 ft., which will have a capacity of 1,500,000 bush- 
els. The largest vessels can approach these wharves, 
at any time, there being a depth of 28 feet of water at 
low tide. 

A line of steamers from Brazil stop here. These im- 
mense boats are of iron, with water-tight compartments, 
and are of 3,500 tons capacity. It is an interesting and 
exciting scene to witness the loading of one of these 
steamers. 

A Park is now being laid out which will extend 
along the entire water-front below the wharves. This, 
when finished, Vv'ill be a beautiful and valuable addition 
to the city. 



5° 

FORT WOOL, OR RIP-RAPS. 

This is an unfinished fort, opposite Fortress Monroe, 
about 2^-2 miles from shore, and was designed, with the 
latter place, to guard the entrance channel of Hamp- 
ton Roads. It is built on an artificial island formed on 
a sand bank which, originally, was covered with sev- 
enteen feet of water. It can be reached in a ver}^ short 
time in a sail boat, and the visit will be a pleasant one- 



Miseellaneoiis Information, 

To Reach Norfolk and Portsmouth : — 

Steamers for Norfolk and Portsmouth leave daily as 
follows : Washington steam.er at 7 a. m., The Bay Line 
Steamer at 8 a. m., and the steamer Luray at 9 a. m. 
Visitors to the Navy Yard should land at Portsmouth, 
The Navy Yard is open to visitors at all hours of the 
day. Returning, excursionists can take the Luray at 
3 p. m., from Norfolk, and at 3.15 p. m., from Ports- 
mouth ; the Washington steamer at 5 p. m., from Nor- 
folk ; or the Bay Line steamer at 5.30 p. m. from Ports- 
mouth, and at 6 p. m.., from Norfolk. The distance 
from Norfolk to Old Point Comfort is about 14 miles, 
or one hour by steamer. 
Mathews, Cherrystone, and Ware River. 

The steamer Northampton leaves Old Point Com- 
fort on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, at 9 a. m., for 
Cherrystone, on the eastern shore of Virginia — famous 
for its oysters, which are accounted among the finest 
in the United States — returning at 2 p. m. 



51 

On Tuesday. Thursday and Saturday, at 9 a. m., for 
Mathews and Ware River, returning at 4 p. m. 

These steamers are first class in all their appointments, 
and the ride across Chesapeake Bay and Hampton 
Roads is delightful. 

NEWPORT'S NEWS: Trams leave Phoebus Station 
at 7.45 a. m., 12.45 p. m., 3.20 p. m., and 6.15 p. m. Re- 
turning — Leave Newport's News at 11. 15 a. m., 11.50 a. 
ni., 5 p. m., 7.35 p. m. 

Steamer Luray leaves Hampton for Newport News 
every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 6 p. m. 



FARES: 
Mathews, Cherrystone, Ware River and return, . $1.00 
Norfolk and Portsmouth 50; round trip tickets, .75 

Fare to Newport Nev/s, (each way) 30 

Carriages per hour i .50 

Sail Boats per hour ij^i to 1.50 

To Hampton, Chariot Line, (each way) 10 




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